PFW | Nicolas Theil

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Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)

Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.

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Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.

During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!

Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).

Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.

By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.

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Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ

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Please find Nicolas Theil here

Art of fashion foundation student competition 2013

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One week left for students to register to the 12th International Arts of Fashion Student Competition 2013, created by Nathalie Doucet. The competition theme is Resilience and the deadline to receive projects is – April 1st, 2013.

You can also register for the interesting MasterClass at Les Arts Decoratifs – le Louvre, Paris that take place this summer (June 24 to July 19, 2013).

All infos are here

PFW | Showroom Belgium

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Dear readers,
this is a short review of the belgian designers set at Showroom Belgium during the last Paris Fashion Week. It’s a new generation of designers, most of them work for many seasons, some of them are new. In any case I advise you to visit their website.

Filles à papa

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Filles à Papa is made by Carol and Sarah, two sisters. Season after season their sporty-punk style is getting better and better.
F.A.P are here

Krjst

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Second collection of Krjst an other collective Justine de Moriamé and Erika Schillebeeckx, the prints (made with Monsieur Pimpant) and embroidery are incredible.
Krjst is here

Alice Knackfuss

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After working at Kris Van Assche studio, Alice Knackfuss started her brand in 2011. This season strong prints also mixed with tailored jacket.
Find her work here

No pictures taken but also to discover, the collection of Calogero di Natale and Marc Philippe Coudeyre.

PFW | Tsolo Munkh, Venus in leather

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Tsolo Munkh creation for fall 2013, beads, leather and snakeskin

Tsolmandakh Munkhuu, her full name, embroider, pinch and cut the leather with an obsessive way.

Back after two tough years, she was supported by Cyrille Chardon (RIP) from the begining, Tsolo Munkh don’t forget where she comes from and work upon her Mongolian influence and nomadism.


Smocked tank, every smocks is made one by one by hand, then maintain with a string of leather knotted at the ends.

The chest concentrates the handcrafting as if it was an armour and the double belt work, highlighting the waist, add feminity to the shape.

The outfits may seems heavy, but i can assure you that they are not. The fluidity of the leather is the first thing you notice.

This collection was quickly made, it’s a spontaneous collection and this is its strength. Prize winner of Festival de la Mode d’Hyères in 2010, the silhouettes earned lightness, showing that Tsolo is evolving, slowly, towards a more urban and accessible silhouette.

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Necklaces, plastron, using beads, leather and snakeskin, accessories are always important for Tsolo Munkh

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Tsolo Munkh is here

PFW | Showroom Berlin

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A quick view of Berlin-based designers i have noticed during Paris Fashion Week at Showroom Berlin.

Michael Sontag

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Michael Sontag, fall 2013

Michael Sontag is working around the draped and fluidity

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Michael Sontag, designer (left) with assistant/model

Read the review done with german publication Derzeit

His work is best viewed here

Esther Perbandt

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Esther Perbandt, designer

After her studies (IFM, Paris) Esther worked for Chacock in the new design team created in 2001 in south of France to revamp the label. In 2004 she create her own label around the idea of androgyny, « playing with the roles ». The collection, full of details, is not specially for men or women she said.

Some shirt or pants are very interesting if you take time to observe, giving you a sort of rocky-chic look. Actually she’s is selling in Hong Kong, Japan and Germany.

Please discover the collection here

Butterflysoulfire

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Shake the shirt and the LED blinks (last only after 178000 flashes)!

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Funny stuff, part of « Pulse », a brand new project bringing the light into fashion for nightbirds only !

I also like it because it reminds me the work (upon the enlightened garments) of this two ones from CPRN.

Please look at their designs here

Tres Bonjour

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I am not talking about wearability here, but i love the graphics rendering of this collection made by latex specialist Sandra Dresp and Viola Jaeger, creators of the label Tres Bonjour.

Please look at their work here

Berlin is no longer (only) the city of underground and « obskur » designs and designers as most of us think it is, the cliché. A new generation are more prepare to go « mainstream », with more stylish creation, while keeping their singularity.

Feel free to check Don’t Shoot The Messengers (DSTM) and Augustin Teboul, my favorite german labels, that didn’t show at Showroom Berlin but in private locations.

No Comment | Le Moine tricote à Paris

Revue en image de sujets, moments et rencontres non chroniqués mais qui ont aussi fait 2012
Non-reviewed images of topics, moments and encounters that also made 2012

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Alice Lemoine, designer of Le Moine tricote

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No comment | Masha Ma

Revue en image de sujets, moments et rencontres non chroniqués mais qui ont aussi fait 2012
Non-reviewed images of topics, moments and encounters that also made 2012

Masha Ma, Paris Fashion Week, Summer Spring 2013

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Augustin Teboul at galerie Joyce

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Dear readers,

until december 7, Annelie Augustin and Odély Téboul designers of Augustin Teboul show their creations at the gallery Joyce, Paris.

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Inspired by surrealism, the installation presents dummies lying on the ground, whose legs and arms intermingle, remind us some of the erotic photomontages of french underground artist Pierre Molinier (see last photo -NSFW-).

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Photomontage by Pierre Molinier

Pierre Molinier (1900-1976) was an artist whose work was centered around fetishistic eroticism he was also a maker of objects. He seems to have influenced directly or indirectly some fashion designers. Marc Jacobs himself was inspired by a shoe of his creation, for his SS 2008 collection (please read the note i had written then).


Augustin Teboul, Vulnerabsurdism

Galerie Joyce – 168-173 galerie de Valois 75001 Paris
Till december 7

 

PFW | Christine Phung, diffraction & variations

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One main idea: light diffraction, inspiration coming from fractals, triangles, minerals and broken glass…

When i met Christine two years ago, i discover a very talented designer, a young women devoted to her work with passion and discipline. Her last collection showed during PFW at Designers Apartment is the perfect illustration of that.

As Christine says, she follows a red line and then dig it until she use up the topic. A methodology she learned at Duperré, school of design and fashion in Paris and she applied to her work from Mandarin Oriental

Christine Phung’s collection for the next season show us how a concept spreads on fabrics, bags and shoes, but also on the colors, the shape (see the pleats treated as a ray of light with a bright color) and the digital patterns manipulated « pixels by pixels ».

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The shoes made with a collaboration of Marion Hanania

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Christine Phung (right) with Aurélie Filippetti (french Minister of Culture and Communication)

Modoscopie | Pièce d’Anarchive

 

Trois profils pour un design

Virginie organisait des évènements pour les marques de luxe lorsqu’elle à rencontré Déborah qui travaillait alors dans l’industrie du parfum. Priscilla, soeur de Déborah et designer, responsable des collections prêt-à-porter femme à Londres chez Vivienne Westwood, les a rejoint par la suite.

Elles toutes les trois quitté leur boulots respectifs afin de se lancer dans l’aventure Pièce d’Anarchive.

Univers: héritage et anarchie

Notre univers découle directement du nom de la marque, Archive pour tout ce qui a attrait au savoir-faire et à l’héritage. Cette saison la guipure est faite à Calais, les cuirs sont français. On fait appel aux meilleurs fabricants qu’ils soient français ou étrangers.

Ce n’est que cette saison que nous avons trouvé un fabricant avec lequel nous souhaitions développer notre chaîne et trame.

Anarchie parce que l’envie est d’insuffler des nouvelles techniques chez les fabricants, de pousser les traditions et dans les thématiques, de faire s’entrechoquer des choses différentes.

« L’envers devient l’endroit, on leur fait faire des choses qu’ils n’ont pas l’habitude de faire » (Deborah)

« Il s’agit d’une anarchie positive, portée sur le produit, avec l’envie de twister les choses » (Priscilla)

 

Cependant travailler avec les meilleurs reste un processus long a mettre en place mais nous avons réussi à posé nos fondamentaux auprès des fabricants, lors des deux premières collections. Désormais notre approche commence a être reconnue.

Sportswear de luxe

Bien sûr ce sont les détails sportifs, les inspirations venues des maillots de basket, les incrustations de biais, la résille, les détails fluos…

Mais il y a aussi le confort, des pièces qui ne sont pas « body conscious », mais qui ont plus à voir avec le vertige que l’on peut avoir lorsque l’on est en mouvement ou que l’on danse…

Communication et distribution

On essaie de conserver une certaine confidentialité, de trouver des manières de présenter singulières, d’avoir une communication conforme à la marque.

Nous sommes distribués depuis nos débuts chez Montaigne Market, Le Bon Marché, Merci et Colette, mais aussi chez Blake à Chicago, Louis à Boston et nous avons de bons retour du Japon, qui est un marché que nous allons suivre.

Une mode intello pour des filles cool

La femme qui porte Pièce d’Anarchive est comme nous, elle a simplement envie de vêtements confortables et élégants.

« L’idée est d’installer des codes, un discours qui corresponde a notre positionnement très haut de gamme » (Virginie)

 

On se projette dans nos créations, on les porte et faisons de multiples essayages au studio. Celles-ci se doivent d’être très portables et très qualitatives, des pièces très chères que l’on aurait envie de porter avec des baskets.

Nous recherchons cette envie de « cool », de casual et d’élégant à la fois.