MULTIPLE SHADE OF BLACK AND 3D SURFACE EMBELLISHMENT, A FUTURISTIC ART COLLECTION INFLUENCED BY NANAS OF NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE BY LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION STUDENT LOKO YU.
TO WATCH: LOKO YU
Catégorie : EDUCATION & YOUNG BLOODS
PFW | Nicolas Theil
Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)
Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.
Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.
During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!
Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).
Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.
By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.
Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ
Please find Nicolas Theil here
Art of fashion foundation student competition 2013
One week left for students to register to the 12th International Arts of Fashion Student Competition 2013, created by Nathalie Doucet. The competition theme is Resilience and the deadline to receive projects is – April 1st, 2013.
You can also register for the interesting MasterClass at Les Arts Decoratifs – le Louvre, Paris that take place this summer (June 24 to July 19, 2013).
All infos are here
PFW | Showroom Belgium
Dear readers,
this is a short review of the belgian designers set at Showroom Belgium during the last Paris Fashion Week. It’s a new generation of designers, most of them work for many seasons, some of them are new. In any case I advise you to visit their website.
Filles à papa
Filles à Papa is made by Carol and Sarah, two sisters. Season after season their sporty-punk style is getting better and better.
F.A.P are here
Krjst
Second collection of Krjst an other collective Justine de Moriamé and Erika Schillebeeckx, the prints (made with Monsieur Pimpant) and embroidery are incredible.
Krjst is here
Alice Knackfuss
After working at Kris Van Assche studio, Alice Knackfuss started her brand in 2011. This season strong prints also mixed with tailored jacket.
Find her work here
No pictures taken but also to discover, the collection of Calogero di Natale and Marc Philippe Coudeyre.
PFW | Tsolo Munkh, Venus in leather
Tsolo Munkh creation for fall 2013, beads, leather and snakeskin
Tsolmandakh Munkhuu, her full name, embroider, pinch and cut the leather with an obsessive way.
Back after two tough years, she was supported by Cyrille Chardon (RIP) from the begining, Tsolo Munkh don’t forget where she comes from and work upon her Mongolian influence and nomadism.
Smocked tank, every smocks is made one by one by hand, then maintain with a string of leather knotted at the ends.
The chest concentrates the handcrafting as if it was an armour and the double belt work, highlighting the waist, add feminity to the shape.
The outfits may seems heavy, but i can assure you that they are not. The fluidity of the leather is the first thing you notice.
This collection was quickly made, it’s a spontaneous collection and this is its strength. Prize winner of Festival de la Mode d’Hyères in 2010, the silhouettes earned lightness, showing that Tsolo is evolving, slowly, towards a more urban and accessible silhouette.
Necklaces, plastron, using beads, leather and snakeskin, accessories are always important for Tsolo Munkh
Tsolo Munkh is here
PFW | Showroom Berlin
A quick view of Berlin-based designers i have noticed during Paris Fashion Week at Showroom Berlin.
Michael Sontag
Michael Sontag, fall 2013
Michael Sontag is working around the draped and fluidity
Michael Sontag, designer (left) with assistant/model
Read the review done with german publication Derzeit
His work is best viewed here
Esther Perbandt
Esther Perbandt, designer
After her studies (IFM, Paris) Esther worked for Chacock in the new design team created in 2001 in south of France to revamp the label. In 2004 she create her own label around the idea of androgyny, « playing with the roles ». The collection, full of details, is not specially for men or women she said.
Some shirt or pants are very interesting if you take time to observe, giving you a sort of rocky-chic look. Actually she’s is selling in Hong Kong, Japan and Germany.
Please discover the collection here
Butterflysoulfire
Shake the shirt and the LED blinks (last only after 178000 flashes)!
Funny stuff, part of « Pulse », a brand new project bringing the light into fashion for nightbirds only !
I also like it because it reminds me the work (upon the enlightened garments) of this two ones from CPRN.
Please look at their designs here
Tres Bonjour
I am not talking about wearability here, but i love the graphics rendering of this collection made by latex specialist Sandra Dresp and Viola Jaeger, creators of the label Tres Bonjour.
Please look at their work here
Berlin is no longer (only) the city of underground and « obskur » designs and designers as most of us think it is, the cliché. A new generation are more prepare to go « mainstream », with more stylish creation, while keeping their singularity.
Feel free to check Don’t Shoot The Messengers (DSTM) and Augustin Teboul, my favorite german labels, that didn’t show at Showroom Berlin but in private locations.
No Comment | Le Moine tricote à Paris
Revue en image de sujets, moments et rencontres non chroniqués mais qui ont aussi fait 2012
Non-reviewed images of topics, moments and encounters that also made 2012
Alice Lemoine, designer of Le Moine tricote
No comment | Masha Ma
Revue en image de sujets, moments et rencontres non chroniqués mais qui ont aussi fait 2012
Non-reviewed images of topics, moments and encounters that also made 2012
Masha Ma, Paris Fashion Week, Summer Spring 2013
Augustin Teboul at galerie Joyce
Dear readers,
until december 7, Annelie Augustin and Odély Téboul designers of Augustin Teboul show their creations at the gallery Joyce, Paris.
Inspired by surrealism, the installation presents dummies lying on the ground, whose legs and arms intermingle, remind us some of the erotic photomontages of french underground artist Pierre Molinier (see last photo -NSFW-).
Photomontage by Pierre Molinier
Pierre Molinier (1900-1976) was an artist whose work was centered around fetishistic eroticism he was also a maker of objects. He seems to have influenced directly or indirectly some fashion designers. Marc Jacobs himself was inspired by a shoe of his creation, for his SS 2008 collection (please read the note i had written then).
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Augustin Teboul, Vulnerabsurdism
Galerie Joyce – 168-173 galerie de Valois 75001 Paris
Till december 7
PFW | Christine Phung, diffraction & variations
One main idea: light diffraction, inspiration coming from fractals, triangles, minerals and broken glass…
When i met Christine two years ago, i discover a very talented designer, a young women devoted to her work with passion and discipline. Her last collection showed during PFW at Designers Apartment is the perfect illustration of that.
As Christine says, she follows a red line and then dig it until she use up the topic. A methodology she learned at Duperré, school of design and fashion in Paris and she applied to her work from Mandarin Oriental
Christine Phung’s collection for the next season show us how a concept spreads on fabrics, bags and shoes, but also on the colors, the shape (see the pleats treated as a ray of light with a bright color) and the digital patterns manipulated « pixels by pixels ».
The shoes made with a collaboration of Marion Hanania
Christine Phung (right) with Aurélie Filippetti (french Minister of Culture and Communication)
lemodalogue.com 