Savoir-faire | Laurence Xu

Laurence Xu basé à Paris a montré plus qu’un show lors des défilés Haute Couture. Dans une atmosphère détendue, le Pavillon Cambon accueillait une installation présentant le savoir-faire du créateur d’origine chinoise.

4000 ans de savoir-faire

On pouvait ainsi admirer, voire toucher le raffinement des broderies exécutées sur des robes placées sur mannequin comme pour une exposition. Fleurs et oiseaux, parmi les références traditionnelles sont ici remis au goût du jour par Laurence Xu.

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Plus loin un aménagement montre le travail ancestral des brodeurs, l’un d’entre eux lévite au dessus-de nos têtes, penché sur sa machine il exécute avec méticulosité son ouvrage. Plus près de nous, au sol, deux brodeuses travaillent sur une pièce de soie noire. Par delà les critères d’admission au label Haute-Couture et nos différences culturelles, on ne peut qu’apprécier la finesse du travail réalisé par ces petites mains.

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Un travail de réinterprétation

Le show a ouvert avec Li Yugang, l’un des plus célèbres chanteur d’opéra chinois. S’ensuit un défilé de robes plus somptueuses les unes que les autres. On n’apprécie pas forcément à sa juste valeur, le travail de réinterpétation des motifs traditionnels du très réputé designer chinois, différence culturelle oblige. Encore une fois il faut se garder d’envies de qualifier le show « d’exotique ».

Ambassadeur du savoir-faire

Le Luxe français défile en Chine depuis plusieurs saisons, lors de shows événements. Le Luxe chinois se dévoile à Paris. Dans une époque où société et économie sont de plus en plus demandeuses d’échanges culturels, Laurence Xu, qui présentait pour la première fois à Paris, est un véritable ambassadeur des traditions de son pays.

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L’actrice Pace Wu clos le show, dans un ensemble fait d’un body en perles et longue jupe brodée bleue marine

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Maison Louis Vuitton, Venise

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Opening of Maison Louis Vuitton in Venice, april 2013

La Maison Louis Vuitton est plus qu’un magasin, un espace dédié à la mode et à la culture, plus précisément l’art contemporain (au 4e étage), tout comme le flagship parisien, dans des proportions adaptées à la Cité des Doges.

C’est ainsi que les trois premiers étages sont réservés respectivement à la maroquinerie, puis les collections homme, les collections femme s’installent au 3e étage et l’espace culturel composé d’une librairie et d’un lieu d’exposition occupe le faîte de l’édifice.

Le maroquinier à choisi de s’installer dans un ancien cinéma dont la réalisation fût confiée à l’architecte Brenno del Guidice en 1936. La conception, avec son balcon suspendu au 4e étage reste très moderne.

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Facade de la Maison Louis Vuitton, avec masques de la Commedia dell’arte et bobines de cinéma en détail

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La première exposition est une série de photos d’époque racontant l’histoire du lieu.

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Vedute (2010), de Jean-François Rauzier, à découvrir absolument

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Maints invités pour le cocktail d’ouverture dont…

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Mrs Anna Dello Russo et Mrs Micol Sabbadini

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Mrs Vega Royo Villanova – here

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Mr Peter Xu / Mr Fengli Xu (blogueurs chinois) – here

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Mrs Elisabeth Von Thurn und Taxis

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Ms Alexia Niedzielski

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Ms Houry Seukunian (Layalina) & Ms Maria Aziz (Elle Arab World) – here

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Mr Patrick Louis Vuitton

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Mr Ildo Damiano (GQ Italia)

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Formerly, The Duchess of Feria, muse of Valentino and Oscar de la Renta, Mrs Naty Abascal

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Mrs Gisela Winkelhofer, CEO and owner of Edition art Co

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Ms Eva Riccobono

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La princesse Deena Abdulaziz

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Mrs Luisa Orsini, Mrs Antonine Peduzzi (designers of TL 180 handbags) and Mrs Langley Fox Hemingway

 

Louis Vuitton, manufacture de souliers | Visite

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At Fiesso d’Artico a town near Venice, well known till the 13th century for is savoir-faire in shoe-making, you enter at La manufacture de souliers of Louis Vuitton and took the main street (rue principale in french) to go to one of the four ateliers.

Each is indicated with a colour (see above) and a specific name: Taïga for men shoes, Nomade for loafers (women and men), Speedy for sneakers (women and men) and Alma for « La femme élégante ».

Two production lines make a 5 steps process: the cutting / the prototypes are mixed with the production as the designers are working with the artisans / the quality control, the finishing (‘make up’ of the shoes) and the packing.

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There is three ways of cutting: with hand, with a pressing machine or with the computer (for better optimisation)

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Demie-mesure
« Demi-mesure » is not « made to mesure ». It’s a service that allow each client (men only) to choose between three shapes (Fenice, Ducale and Rialto), three stitchings (Norwegian, Goodyear and Blake) and a large choice of skins to create his own pair of souliers. The result is a choice between 3500 combinations!

Wait about 12 weeks for a basic model to 16 weeks for a more complicated one like little boots. The price ranging from 2000 to 8500 euros and as the colour (« the make up », the art of patina) is handmade (see below) you’ll be sure that your pair will be unique!

The demi-mesure service is only available in eight locations for now, Milan was first, then came Sydney, Tokyo, Miami, London, Shangaï, Monaco and Munich last week.

Since 2001, when it has been established, La manufacture de souliers combine the excellence in craftmanship and cutting-edge technology, the best of France and Italy.

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An artisan making a Norwegian stitch

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After and before sole’s patina

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The art of patina by two artisans or call it the « make-up of the shoes », give a unique result to the souliers, that’s also the beauty of the product !

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Voila !

 

 

The craftsmen | Manufacture de souliers, Louis Vuitton, Venice

I start using Vine in Venice a few days ago at la Manufacture de souliers of Louis Vuitton. I capture this precious moments when the craftsmen are working.

Each craftsmen control the previous operation and make theirs meticulously, no default is tolerated, and if one is discovered the production line is immediately stop and checked. Some defects are invisible by common people.

The video below is a compilation of my first Vine, a quick view of what we saw and learn this day.

PFW | Nicolas Theil

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Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)

Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.

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Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.

During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!

Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).

Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.

By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.

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Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ

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Please find Nicolas Theil here

Delvaux, oldest existing leather house

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Dear readers,

a few days ago, the historic belgian atelier Delvaux was showing new collection at Downtown studio, Paris

Founded in 1829, Delvaux is the oldest existing leather house in the world.

Exclusivity, craftmanship and fine materials is what luxury is about. Even today there is no industrialisation in the process of making at the atelier, every piece is handmade.

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The designers at Delvaux are inspired by all the historic creations of the atelier.

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Mr Jean Colonna

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Delvaux really keep tradition where others became industrialised, they like to be compared to Geneva watchmakers.

PFW | Maison Cadolle

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Closing the Paris fashion week, Maison Cadolle, famous luxury lingerie house, well known by her founder, Hermine Cadolle, who has invented the bra 120 years ago, was showing at glamour cabaret Secret Square the latest creations.

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The performance of the cabaret dancers wearing the prestigious corsetry of this family-owned company is as usual, fantastic.

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End of the show with Poupie Cadolle

Plaza Athénée x Dorchester Prize

Last night at Plaza-Athénée it was a pleasure to see Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul, the two nice designers of Berlin-based label Augustin Teboul wining the 4th Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize. My thoughts also go to the work of Quentin Veron and IRM Design.

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From left to right: Odély Teboul & Annelie Augustin

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Above the white geometrical works of IRM Design duo…

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… and the work of Quentin Véron (fur jackets and big leather belts)

 

Amazing pumpkin

Dear readers,

last night exposed at Le Printemps pop-up store, one of the very limited edition (seven) signed and numbered of the gold pumpkin minaudière created by japanese artist Yayoï Kusama for Louis Vuitton and inspired by her previous sculptures (see below).

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Completely handmade with 85% of gold, 15% of resin and a lambskin lining, the minaudière has already been acquired by three collectors (respectively in Japan, Unites States and Taïwan) for… 100 000 euros.

Pictures at Le Printemps Haussman by Léticia Dargère

Louis Vuitton popup store in SoHo

Chers lecteurs,
some pictures of the Yayoi Kusama popup store in the Louis Vuitton’s shop based in SoHo, open especially for us that morning.

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Yayoi Kusama is watching you from the windows…

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Goodies !

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More goodies !

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more and more !

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I went downstairs…

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…and learn a bit about the various leather qualities used. Above the Antheia quality with embroidered Monogram pattern.

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Above the Mahina quality where the Monogram pattern is perforated.

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Pelayo (kate loves me) and Alexandra aka Lovelypepa (Fashionsalad) instagraming loud!

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Three angels: Alexandra, Angela (stylosophy) and Alessandra (littlesnobthing)