Keen observers of Michael Sonntag, of which I myself am included, have long since realized his work is something of a continuous progression and not open to the fads and whimsy that other designers often follow.
And why should it? You can see there is a clear vision, from someone with the skill to follow it through. He has such a talent for creating silhouettes that appear breathtakingly sculptural and yet perfectly wearable all at once.
This collection had a slightly more graphic direction than the ones that have preceded it, black and white combined to striking effect. Shades of red, blue and yellow appeared in patches but were used as highlights rather than a focus. I didn’t even mind that the models walked so slowly, it allowed more time to take in the clothes that had a real three-dimensional quality and were interesting from whichever angle you looked at them.
Generously cut jackets hung off the shoulder, the stiff fabrics creating soft waves across the back. Trousers billowed from the thigh. A number of ankle length silk dresses draped from the neck and weaved into improbable patterns over the models’ bodies.
As always, the whole thing left me excited to see where he goes next.
Text by James Castle for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel