Berlin Fashion Week | Michael Sontag

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Keen observers of Michael Sonntag, of which I myself am included, have long since realized his work is something of a continuous progression and not open to the fads and whimsy that other designers often follow.

And why should it? You can see there is a clear vision, from someone with the skill to follow it through. He has such a talent for creating silhouettes that appear breathtakingly sculptural and yet perfectly wearable all at once.

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This collection had a slightly more graphic direction than the ones that have preceded it, black and white combined to striking effect. Shades of red, blue and yellow appeared in patches but were used as highlights rather than a focus. I didn’t even mind that the models walked so slowly, it allowed more time to take in the clothes that had a real three-dimensional quality and were interesting from whichever angle you looked at them.

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Generously cut jackets hung off the shoulder, the stiff fabrics creating soft waves across the back. Trousers billowed from the thigh. A number of ankle length silk dresses draped from the neck and weaved into improbable patterns over the models’ bodies.

As always, the whole thing left me excited to see where he goes next.

Text by James Castle for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel

 

Berlin Fashion Week | Augustin Teboul

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You would think that presentations should give greater scope for designers to tell their story compared to the narrow confines of a runway show. Very rarely is that the case though.

Design duo Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul really showed how it should be done. The scene was grand and sophisticated, with silver trays of vodka cocktails weaving amongst the guests and Chopin playing from a grand piano.

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The atmosphere on the other hand was full of sexual tension, like finding yourself at an exclusive high society party and forever feeling that an orgy is about to break out at any moment.

Models draped themselves across the couches and furniture in provocative poses, flowers arranged in huge sculptural forms rose up around them. Black lace was pulled tight across skin. Sheer silk, often embellished with glossy black beads, was draped from the shoulder and waist in varying volumes and lengths. A tougher edge took the form of leather jackets and pants in biker styles.

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Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul

The word presentation doesn’t accurately describe the final result – this was a performance.

Text by James Castle

This post is a collaboration with Derzeit