PFW | Showroom Berlin

showroom-berlin-10

A quick view of Berlin-based designers i have noticed during Paris Fashion Week at Showroom Berlin.

Michael Sontag

showroom-berlin-1
Michael Sontag, fall 2013

Michael Sontag is working around the draped and fluidity

showroom-berlin-2
Michael Sontag, designer (left) with assistant/model

Read the review done with german publication Derzeit

His work is best viewed here

Esther Perbandt

showroom-berlin-4

showroom-berlin-3
Esther Perbandt, designer

After her studies (IFM, Paris) Esther worked for Chacock in the new design team created in 2001 in south of France to revamp the label. In 2004 she create her own label around the idea of androgyny, « playing with the roles ». The collection, full of details, is not specially for men or women she said.

Some shirt or pants are very interesting if you take time to observe, giving you a sort of rocky-chic look. Actually she’s is selling in Hong Kong, Japan and Germany.

Please discover the collection here

Butterflysoulfire

showroom-berlin-5
Shake the shirt and the LED blinks (last only after 178000 flashes)!

showroom-berlin-6

Funny stuff, part of « Pulse », a brand new project bringing the light into fashion for nightbirds only !

I also like it because it reminds me the work (upon the enlightened garments) of this two ones from CPRN.

Please look at their designs here

Tres Bonjour

showroom-berlin-8

showroom-berlin-7

I am not talking about wearability here, but i love the graphics rendering of this collection made by latex specialist Sandra Dresp and Viola Jaeger, creators of the label Tres Bonjour.

Please look at their work here

Berlin is no longer (only) the city of underground and « obskur » designs and designers as most of us think it is, the cliché. A new generation are more prepare to go « mainstream », with more stylish creation, while keeping their singularity.

Feel free to check Don’t Shoot The Messengers (DSTM) and Augustin Teboul, my favorite german labels, that didn’t show at Showroom Berlin but in private locations.

Berlin Fashion Week | Michael Sontag

michael-sontag -2

Keen observers of Michael Sonntag, of which I myself am included, have long since realized his work is something of a continuous progression and not open to the fads and whimsy that other designers often follow.

And why should it? You can see there is a clear vision, from someone with the skill to follow it through. He has such a talent for creating silhouettes that appear breathtakingly sculptural and yet perfectly wearable all at once.

michael-sontag -3

This collection had a slightly more graphic direction than the ones that have preceded it, black and white combined to striking effect. Shades of red, blue and yellow appeared in patches but were used as highlights rather than a focus. I didn’t even mind that the models walked so slowly, it allowed more time to take in the clothes that had a real three-dimensional quality and were interesting from whichever angle you looked at them.

michael-sontag -4

michael-sontag -1

Generously cut jackets hung off the shoulder, the stiff fabrics creating soft waves across the back. Trousers billowed from the thigh. A number of ankle length silk dresses draped from the neck and weaved into improbable patterns over the models’ bodies.

As always, the whole thing left me excited to see where he goes next.

Text by James Castle for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel