Jan Taminiau’s work is less futuristic than Summer Spring 2012. No helmets this time…
Embroideries and a precious work on weaving. Gold and lamés, ruffles on long dresses embroidered with Uzbek ikat patterns, all this gave an ostentatious & baroque collection, less daring than « Tarnished beauty » the previous one but always for a superwoman. Fragile on her very high heels (with no heels), strong with emphasized shoulders.
Then the first model of Jan Taminiau show appears on the runway of Le Laboratoire and it was a big waoow!
The girls are tall, very tall, unreachable beauty. Perched on very very high embroidered heels (an hybrid shoes that both Lady Gaga and Daphne Guiness would appreciate) wearing embroidered silk veil cocktail dresses and a helmet (!) the girls seems to be a modern incarnation of Athena or coming from an other planet. The daughter of Barbarella going at a party or think Elie Saab meets Daft Punk.
With the helmets and the shoes, it could seems an other fashion cliché crazyness, but it’s not. The dress are real, more for parties of course (he took inspiration from Studio 54 during the seventies) than your everyday work. Today, Jan Taminiau is making made to measure garments for his individual clients (mostly european).
The silhouette above reminds me the Giles Deacon « Pacman » collection for spring 2009.
Giles Deacon, Spring 2009
The girls are gorgeous.
Tarnished beauty, is a romantic collection, a nostalgic extravaganza.
In the backstages Jan told me about his adoration of women, the importance of revealing themselves.
He talked about is obsession of duality, symbolized (i suppose), by the softness of the dresses versus the boldness of the helmets. This collection is also a dialogue between masculinity and feminity.
The woman of Jan Taminiau is bigger than life, a goddess (his words), she is more than a woman.