I start using Vine in Venice a few days ago at la Manufacture de souliers of Louis Vuitton. I capture this precious moments when the craftsmen are working.
Each craftsmen control the previous operation and make theirs meticulously, no default is tolerated, and if one is discovered the production line is immediately stop and checked. Some defects are invisible by common people.
The video below is a compilation of my first Vine, a quick view of what we saw and learn this day.
Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)
Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.
Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.
During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!
Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).
Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.
By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.
Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ
Please find Nicolas Theil here
Dear readers,
I am a subscriber of Wired magazine for years now, in october 2012, they launch an issue with a 3D printer on the cover. This issue tell us more than technique: 3D printer were a few months to become the next christmas gift (and not only for geek). That’s mean that 3D printing is gonna go mainstream…
Accessory makers already have a perfect field of expression. Look at these shoes non-workable whitout 3D techniques.
‘Morphogenesis’ 3D printed shoe by dutch designer Pauline Van Dongen
‘Strvct’ 3D printed shoe by Continuum, $900, here
3D printers is the next big thing for creatives, just look at Iris Van Herpen « Hybrid Holism » striking looks made with belgian-based atelier MGX by Materialise. The possibilities of creation seems to be infinite as you avoid some technicals difficulties due to seams and joining.
Iris Van Herpen, « Hybrid Holism » collection AW 2012/2013, read a review here
Technologies evolves quickly and actually 3D printers can create object containing different materials. Application fields seems endless (living cells, fooding, etc.)
Some people thinks that 3D printing is much more revolutionary than internet, I am not that far from their point of view. But as with internet, are we gonna create an other virtual world sometimes too far from certain realities and production system? Actually most of the shoes design are not really wearable, the materials are too weak, but things are going fast.
Internet help democratizes the information, today it’s a 5 mn process to launch a blog a talk about anything you want. Will 3D printing help the democratization of little productions? In a few years « we will be able » to print iPhone cases, kitchenware, bangles or with a giant 3D printer, our house!
Also, fashion design schools will find a tool to help their students at creating and exploring new designs.
Does 3D printing a next field for luxury brands, helping them create made to measure and exclusive furnitures using luxury materials?
E-artcrafting, a new kind of artcrafting and ‘savoir-faire’ is about to be created. As giant 3D printers are a subject of thinking by certains companies, imagine a luxury yacht with very exclusive (and crazy) design for very wealthy people…
« Your imagination is the limit ».
Also check, Nicolas Theil 3D-printed glasses here
Dear readers,
a few days ago, the historic belgian atelier Delvaux was showing new collection at Downtown studio, Paris
Founded in 1829, Delvaux is the oldest existing leather house in the world.
Exclusivity, craftmanship and fine materials is what luxury is about. Even today there is no industrialisation in the process of making at the atelier, every piece is handmade.
The designers at Delvaux are inspired by all the historic creations of the atelier.
Mr Jean Colonna
Delvaux really keep tradition where others became industrialised, they like to be compared to Geneva watchmakers.
Fatima Lopes, last week, during Be Mine’s, her first fragrance, launching party.
Twenty years after her begining on the fashion scene, thirteen years after her parisian debut, Fatima Lopes launch her first fragrance. Aurélien Guichard who recently create Pleats Please for Issey Miyake, has to translate the intuitive, bold, daring and feminine world of portuguese designer Fatima Lopes.
A diamond on a cube
The campaign, a man and a woman half-naked shot in black and white. Daring or not?
From left, Ellen Von Unwerth, Fatima Lopes and Aurélien Guichard, perfumer
20TH ANNIVERSARY OF CAMPER’S ARRIVAL IN PARIS, MANY FRIENDS AND DESIGNERS FOR THIS EVENT.
ACCESSORIES DESIGNER, SASKIA DIEZ
BELGIAN TROOPS JEAN PAUL LESPAGNARD, LÉA PECKRE AND FRIEND
LORENZO FLUXÀ FOUNDER OF CAMPER AND LORENZO FLUXÀ JR.
DESIGNER YIQIN YIN
LORENZO FLUXÀ, DIDIER GRUMBACH AND BERNHARD WILLEHLM
THIS WOMAN WORK WITH AND WEAR THIS TERRIFIC BERNHARD WILLHELM DESIGN
L’histoire olfactive d’Issey Miyake a débuté il y a 20 ans avec la création de l’Eau d’Issey. Explorant alors un territoire radicalement nouveau, parfum non dérangeant, privilégiant l’épure et l’élitisme, l’Eau d’Issey était « le parfum de l’eau sur la peau d’une femme ».
Aurélien Guichard
Aurélien Guichard, parfumeur, à déjà croisé la route d’Issey Miyake avant de travailler sur ce projet, c’était lors d’un défilé dans les années 80, il avait à peine huit ans… Des années plus tard, son premier amour portera l’Eau d’Issey.
C’est à un double challenge auquel lui et le studio de création ont été confrontés pour la création de Pleats Please: traduire pour la première fois, la mode en terme de design et de jus.
Tout en conservant l’esprit de création de la maison Issey Miyake, qui consiste à se nourrir d’une vision ou d’une phrase du maître, plutôt que d’une stratégie uniquement marketing, le désir était aussi de passer outre certaines retenues. Dépasser l’épure et les couleurs « blanche et grise », mais sans les éliminer (car le blanc est la signature de la marque) tout en continuant à s’adresser à cette femme férue de design et de cette forme de luxe.
En terme de design, le résultat est un flacon au contour un peu chaotique et anguleux qui s’inspire d’un sac Bao-Bao que l’on aurait négligemment oublié sur un canapé Barcelona… Le capot, lisse, en contraste, s’inspire, de la photo d’un coquelicot prise par Irving Penn.
La couleur, cantonnée aux éditions spéciales de l’Eau d’Issey fait son apparition sur le packaging. L’idée étant de capitaliser sur cette partie de la mode qui offre une palette couleur qu’il n’y a pas ailleurs et véhiculer ainsi l’idée d’ouverture.
Passionnée, Nathalie Helloin-Kamel, DG des marques chez Beauté Prestige International, nous raconte son travail avec les équipes basées au Japon.
Aurélien Guichard nous confiera qu’après avoir présenté une esquisse d’où se dégageait quelque chose de plaisant, une lumière et une certaine légèreté de mouvement, le plaisir fût de travailler avec des équipes réellement passionnées, laissant le temps au temps et respectant le créateur parfumeur.
Traduire la vision et réinterpréter la mode c’est exprimer la joie avec un départ de note de nashi (poire japonaise), puis signifier l’abstraction chère au maître par des notes de bois de senteur et de pivoine, puis le mouvement des plissés avec le cèdre et le patchouli. Les bois apportant une note élégante et addictive.
Pleats Please se veut « un parfum avec un sourire ».
Dear readers,
last night exposed at Le Printemps pop-up store, one of the very limited edition (seven) signed and numbered of the gold pumpkin minaudière created by japanese artist Yayoï Kusama for Louis Vuitton and inspired by her previous sculptures (see below).
Completely handmade with 85% of gold, 15% of resin and a lambskin lining, the minaudière has already been acquired by three collectors (respectively in Japan, Unites States and Taïwan) for… 100 000 euros.
Pictures at Le Printemps Haussman by Léticia Dargère
© Cass Bird
Next September will be a month to remember at Yves Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane’s first ready to wear collection under the revamped label Saint Laurent will drain full attention. A few days before (September the 3d), the digital team at Yves Saint Laurent Beauté will launch « Devoted to fans » a limited edition of eyeshadows dedicated to their Facebook fans only. September will also see the release of Manifesto, the new perfume with Jessica Chastain as ambassadress.
This perfume want to break the rules… of perfume advertising, no more « seduce him » or « it’s your lucky day ». Most of the brands use the same codes, the same colours in their ads. This new campain shows a pure white environnement (like an Apple ad) a splash of colour in the background and a woman in purple dress in the front.
The statement here is « be subversive », « daring » (like the previous ads of La Nuit de l’Homme or Opium reshooting). With Manifesto, Yves Saint Laurent wants to go one step further by changing the visual codes and adding an intellectual and artistic dimension with the baseline « Love is art ».
Hôtel Royal Monceau, Paris –
An interesting quick interview with a very smart and beautiful woman. We mostly talked about her childhood, Cinema, Art and the definition of Beauty. It was a exciting moment…
My manifesto is « believe in my dreams ».
When I was a young girl in California i wanted to be an actress, I always dream big, passionately, even if people around me told me that it would be difficult. During my whole life I always believed that if i lived surrounded by Art and inspiration i would achievemy dreams. I am lucky today because i am living them.
When i was a young girl I felt « on the outside ». I remember cutting all my hair very short at twelve years old, i was wearing red cowboy boots, had my own style. Then a lot of children at school tied to make me feel nervous, teasing me a lot because I was different.
Jerry Hall was such a great figure for me to see, at that time, because she was redhead and very powerful.
I hope that this uniqueness is something I have in commun with Yves Saint Laurent woman. And I hope these ads will show to young girls how to be different.
It’s subjective. The colour of a leaf perhaps? It’s so different and doesn’t look like anything else… Usually when I find something beautiful it’s something most unexpected, visually striking, because, maybe, I hadn’t seen it before.
In fashion, i’ll love audacious silhouettes and colours (she’s wearing a vivid purple dress). Catherine Deneuve in a tuxedo on the red carpet, for exemple, is so unexpected and so strong.
I am connected to power, strength and sensuality, without loosing femininity. In « Belle de Jour », Catherine Deneuve is the image of a woman, feminine, but not weak and that is, for me, is very beautiful too.
Gustav Klimt, because he loved redheads ! Art is my life, I am very inspired by modern Art. Cindy Sherman, for exemple, is very inspiring. The different faces of women, just like the roles I play, different kinds of women, different kinds of strength, I look at her pictures and it makes me feel that I can go further.
© Laetitia Duarte for Yves Saint Laurent Beauté
Yes and no…
For exemple, in Tree of life of Terrence Malick, I am the Director’s Muse . As an actress, I am less exposed because I am me as « Ms O’Brian »! Working for Yves Saint Laurent was a bit different, it was the first time that I felt vulnerable because of not having a character that I could be playing, I feel more exposed, more sensitive, there is nothing to hide, it’s me! It’s like « honest ».
Isabelle Huppert is for me the greatest actress in the world. She always plays very bold characters, very daring women. She always challenges herself, working with directors from other countries, she’s never lazy. To play with her is one of my dreams.
Yes definitively !
Michael Hanneke, Lars Von Trier, Olivier Assayas are my favorites! As I feel different, I am really inspired by European Cinema which is so different from ours.
This perfume is like a piece of Art, like a painting or a Terrence Malick movie. I like its complexity, it’s not something that simply reminds me of one certain memory. It’s something you go back to over and over and you see new things, new emotions.
—
Jessica Chastain is a « breakout » star, seven films in 2011 and 35 critics awards won. I met the star a few weeks ago, a privilege I shared with Shini Park and James Bort.
Thanks to Yves Saint Laurent Beauté.
I love these little objects from the past, brought to you by friends, parents, uncles or bought one day in a flea market and forgot for years before being discovered again.
This is the box of a parfumed soap, Amazone from french luxury house Hermès. I found this tiny box (5 cm/2 inches width) from the 70′ in a treasure box at home. I don’t know where it come from, I suppose that it was a part of a beauty case you prepare when you are packing for a long journey.
Amazone a floral green fragrance created by Jean-Claude Ellena and Maurice Maurin in 1974, inspired by the mythical female equestrians. In the mid-seventies, an era where women were fighting for more freedom, Amazone was like a manifesto for a modern woman.
lemodalogue.com 