LA MODE À LA COUR DU ROI LOUIS XIV

LA FRANCE INSPIRE TOUTE L’EUROPE AU XVIIE SIÈCLE, PAR UNE POLITIQUE INDUSTRIELLE VOLONTARISTE ET UNE VOLONTÉ ROYALE, LA MODE FRANÇAISE INSPIRE TOUTES LES ARISTOCRATIES EUROPÉENNES… LOUIS XIV « FAIT LA MODE » DIT-ON ALORS.
C’EST L’ÉPOQUE DE LA CRÉATION DU JUSTAUCORPS À BREVET, ANCÊTRE DU COSTUME TROIS PIÈCES, MAIS AUSSI DES PREMIERS MAGAZINES ET ILLUSTRATIONS « DE MODE ».

AUDIO PAR CORINNE THÉPAUT-CABASSET, HISTORIENNE

PFW | Showroom Berlin

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A quick view of Berlin-based designers i have noticed during Paris Fashion Week at Showroom Berlin.

Michael Sontag

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Michael Sontag, fall 2013

Michael Sontag is working around the draped and fluidity

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Michael Sontag, designer (left) with assistant/model

Read the review done with german publication Derzeit

His work is best viewed here

Esther Perbandt

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Esther Perbandt, designer

After her studies (IFM, Paris) Esther worked for Chacock in the new design team created in 2001 in south of France to revamp the label. In 2004 she create her own label around the idea of androgyny, « playing with the roles ». The collection, full of details, is not specially for men or women she said.

Some shirt or pants are very interesting if you take time to observe, giving you a sort of rocky-chic look. Actually she’s is selling in Hong Kong, Japan and Germany.

Please discover the collection here

Butterflysoulfire

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Shake the shirt and the LED blinks (last only after 178000 flashes)!

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Funny stuff, part of « Pulse », a brand new project bringing the light into fashion for nightbirds only !

I also like it because it reminds me the work (upon the enlightened garments) of this two ones from CPRN.

Please look at their designs here

Tres Bonjour

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I am not talking about wearability here, but i love the graphics rendering of this collection made by latex specialist Sandra Dresp and Viola Jaeger, creators of the label Tres Bonjour.

Please look at their work here

Berlin is no longer (only) the city of underground and « obskur » designs and designers as most of us think it is, the cliché. A new generation are more prepare to go « mainstream », with more stylish creation, while keeping their singularity.

Feel free to check Don’t Shoot The Messengers (DSTM) and Augustin Teboul, my favorite german labels, that didn’t show at Showroom Berlin but in private locations.

My dear friend Sun

Sunkyung, my friend, actually studying at Institut Français de la Mode and writing for the korean version of Elle magazine was wearing this wonderful Oscar de la Renta’s sweater during a lunch we had at french restaurant Au Petit Panisse last month.

Arts of Fashion Foundation 2011 #1


Project by EunJin Song South Korea – Hong-Ik University

Last year i followed the fashion masterclass organized by Arts of Fashion Foundation and held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Nathalie has asked me to be part of the team again, the pleasure was mine.

This year the themes were:

The modern dancer, is to create a daytime dress like a sculptor, based upon the work of Madame Grès (her technique of draping and fabric carving).

The flying tailor, is to create an everyday life menswear « garment », a combination of both innovation and function, based upon the work of Hussein Chalayan.

Twelve students from different countries (China, Switzerland, USA, France…) spend one month in Paris creating two silhouettes and fashion illustrations, this is some of them.

All infos here

Students, creative people at work


Justin Jamison and Kaycee Houchin from USA – San Francisco (the Art Institute of California)


Stefanie Ayoub from Toronto (Ryerson University)


Joyce Liang from USA – San Francisco (Apparel Arts)


Feng Chen Wang from China (Beijing Institute of Technology)


Justin Jamison


Danielle Lejah from USA (University of Wisconsin – Madison)


Leah Mendelson from USA – San Francisco (the Academy of Art University)


Nika Tang from USA – San Francisco (the Academy of Art) University). Nika is already a freelance designer with her own brand in San francisco, check her website

The rising designers


Lucile Puton (La Cambre), Paris based menswear designer, part of 10 finalists of the Hyères 2010 International Fashion Festival. Currently freelancing for Thierry Mugler w/ Nicola Formichetti and Romain Kremer.


Jasper Sinchai Chadprajong (Royal college of Arts), London based menswear designer, part of 10 finalists of the Hyères 2010 International Fashion Festival. Collaboration with Brioni, Camper and Swarovski.


Christine Phung (Duperré, IFM), Paris based womenswear designer, design the uniforms of the new world class luxury hotel Mandarin Oriental in Paris, freelancing for Vanessa Bruno, Baby Dior, Veja to name a few and designing her own collections based on experimentations and interactions with the environnement.