Étiquette : Bloom

Young blood | KLAR

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT

Minimalistic design, KLAR garments sounds like a manifesto spread by a combo composed by visual designer Tiago Carneiro and fashion designers Alexandre Marrafeiro and Andreia Oliveira.

Clearly the trio want to say many things about technology and sustainability and since 2012 their style has evolved. But it’s always extremely difficult to reinterpret in garment your universe especially when you are a young designer.

But what we saw during Bloom (Portugal Fashion week)  seems to be the beginning of a promising exploration. Wait and see.

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Teresa Abrunhosa, behind the scene during Porto fashion week

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT

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Before the show at Bloom, a model concentrates deeply

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After the show, designer Teresa Abrunhosa, strike a pose

Fashion is a passion and Teresa Abrunhosa with her academic background slowly moved to this world. It’s only last year that she started studying fashion. Before she studied fine arts, then works as an illustrator and made some internships in various portuguese fashion houses.

Miguel Flor, coordinator of Bloom, offer her the opportunity to show her first collection during Porto fashion week.

Tight fitting, laser cuts showing the skin, transparencies that « reveal » but not totally are the main characteristics of The age of consent, a collection not as daring and edgy as the references Teresa gave me (the powerful women of Helmut Newton or Guy Bourdin).

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Young Blood #2 | Cláudia Garrido

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT

Born in Aveiro, now living in Guimarães, Cláudia Garrido studied at ESAD school of design in Porto.

It’s her second menswear collection inspired by the Ballet Russes and all the sophistication around. Mainly black and grey, she told me that it’s a revelation of her « dark side ».

It’s also a message, her first collection use colors, but for Bloom she thought she has to prove something. She think that people react differently if you create in black…

All the knitted garments are mostly made by hand with the help of the factory, in Guimarães, she work for (she is designing knitted homewear).

Most of the silhouettes have a strong work on the shoulder making the boys look like if they have wings…

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Except for the non ‘sophisticated’ clip the silhouette is very pleasant.

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Inspired by Léon Bakst member of the Ballets Russes for which he design costumes. Above a print from Firebird see here.

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Bloom is a platform of Portugal Fashion created by Miguel Flor, designer and teacher, where the talent of national fashion, recent graduates is discovered and displayed.

La Goth…

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT


Yuka in the backstage of Bloom

La Goth loves skulls, ripper tights and darkness…

Many years ago (by the end of the eighties), being « a goth » was first of all about listening very specific music, then wearing special outfits and as i heard one day before a live show, « prefer death to life »… If you were a goth you had to assume to be scary for the others.

Today everyone has is goth day, you can listen to Lady Gaga, being a fan of japanimation, don’t know anything about Lovecraft, watching Sex and the City and spend your « holidays in the sun » and not in a cave.

All you have to do is having your hair dyed (blue, red, indigo), a ripped outfit, dark lipstick or some studs on your shoes and « Oh my God your daughter* is a goth ! » and if you have all of this, then you’re cursed!

Fashion takes it all (thanks to all the Versace, Galliano and McQueen) that made it glamour(!) and pretty. Goth is today, nothing related only with music, it’s a common word, still a bit borderline. It’s a trend, as color blocking, nude or the various trend of this summer…

Below, backstages at Bloom fashion show, march 2012, Lisboa and Porto

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Meet Joana Ferreira

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT


Joana Ferreira after the show

Porto Fashion Week, spring summer 2010-

For his 15th anniversary the Portugal Fashion week took place at Alfândega de Porto, a wide building, divided in two spaces for the week-end.

I used to work in Porto during 3 years, making little trips during the making of the collections. I really fell in love with portuguese language and the city during this time, it was a pleasure to get back in town then.

The first floor was reserved for the Portugal Fashion event, the big guns (Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Fatima Lopez, Ana Salazar, Katy Xiomara, etc.). The ground floor was for Bloom a special event organized (with Portugal Fashion) by fashion designer, former Martin Margiela, Miguel Flor.

Bloom is about discovering new talents. It’s for the young bloods only (from 3 selected fashion schools) and young designers. In this basement, a very urban place, the shows were informal, arty and sometimes more exciting than those we could see upstairs…

Portugal is well known for his fashion industries and it’s seems that dim the creativity, especially on saturday as a large part of the shows upstairs were industrial fashion (Red Oak, Lion of Porches, Vicri).

With designers as famous as Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Luis Buchinho or Fatima Lopes we expect more creativity and risk taking on the runways. According to Francisco Maria Balsemão, manager of the event, it’s what Bloom is for:

« … to bring these new talents from Bloom to the Portugal Fashion, to integrate them to the creative movement of the country. »

As i said below, saturday wasn’t a great day and I have to wait the last show of Bloom but one to found my favorite: Joana Ferreira.


At 20, Joana Ferreira have just finish fashion school, her collection is a mix of a school girl and an androgynous look.

It’s also all about skin and appearance, light materials for transparency and geometric prints like scarifications, « to protect and immune » she said on her blog (please Joana translate it in english please). The prints were inspired by the work of Leni Riefenstahl with the Nuba tribes in Sudan (see The last of the Nuba, The People of Kau), very edgy isn’t it?

She also like the work of Proenza Schouler and Kris Van Assche.

Shaded eyes, shaded look


I like this minimalistic and shaded look, Jil Sander wanna-like.

Shaded geometric prints, symmetrical like a Rorschach test

Shaded suit. Black the color of Portugal, the color of the Fado, a music genre which symbolizes the feeling of loss. Black but transparent for this suit (like the pants).

A very mature collection for this young ex-student who presented this year with Wolke Bos a collective of young designers. We really want to see more of her work.

Oh Porto !

~ CHRISTIAN POULOT


Final du show de Luis Buchinho

Trois jours non-stop sous un temps paradisiaque et idyllique, au pas de charge pour suivre une des fashion week lusitanienne.

Au Portugal il y a deux fashion week, celle de Lisbonne et celle de Porto. Pourquoi me direz-vous? Les créateurs que j’ai eu l’occasion de rencontrer non pas su me dire ce qui différenciait les deux manifestations. En l’espace d’une dizaine de jours des créateurs comme Fatima Lopes, Alves Gonçalves, Ana Salazar ou Luis Buchinho organisent deux défilés majeurs dans leur pays…

A Porto donc et ce pendant trois jours, se déroulent deux manifestations sis dans un même lieu. Portugal Fashion ou les défilés des créateurs établis. Felipe Oliveira Baptista y fait défiler sa collection vue à Paris, Luis Buchinho en profite pour y présenter une ligne plus orientée maille, Fatima Lopez, la star, déchaîne les passions parmi le public, avec une collection très inspirée par l’univers aquatique. Autour de ces pointures, des créateurs moins connus à l’international, Storytailors, Red Oak, présentent eux aussi leurs modèles, pas de créativité débordante, ni de prises de risque stylistique chez eux.

Pour trouver des créations plus agitées, il faut descendre de deux étages, au nouveau salon baptisé Bloom. Salon de la jeune création, il est orchestré par Miguel Flor, designer (ex-Martin Margiela), professeur à Lisbonne et s’occupant d’une écurie de jeunes créateurs où l’on trouve la talentueuse Joana Ferreira.