The belgians, an Unexpected Fashion Story

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Martin Margiela SS1991 © Ronald Stoops et Martin Margiela Hommes SS 1999 

A ne manquer sous aucun prétexte si vous êtes de passage à Bruxelles.

Surréaliste, avant-gardiste et explicite : voilà les maîtres-mots de la mode belge, qui jouit d’une réputation internationale. L’exposition offre un regard unique et historique sur l’ADN de la mode belge, du légendaire Groupe des Six d’Anvers, dont Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester et Walter Van Beirendonck, aux créations originales de Martin Margiela, A.F. Vandevorst et Raf Simons. Outre ces créateurs confirmés, vous découvrirez des acteurs exerçant leur influence dans différentes disciplines de la mode et de l’art. Est également mis en lumière les intérêts des écoles de mode belge, en particulier la Modeacademie d’Anvers et La Cambre à Bruxelles.
Par ailleurs, l’exposition ne pouvait évidemment pas mettre de côté les nouveaux talents, tels que Jean-Paul Lespagnard et Christian Wijnants.

Curator : Didier Vervaeren
Co-production: MAD Brussels – Mode and Design Centre , BOZAR EXPO
Avec la collaboration du Fashion Museum province of Antwerp (MoMu)

Informations ici

Crédit photos: Ann Demeulemeester SS 1982 ® Patrick Robyn 1982, AF Vandevorst AW 2015-16 ® Ronald Stoops et Raf Simons SS 1998 ® Ronald Stoops (pour les photos de la bannière)

Semaine de la Mode | Filles à papa

Dear readers,

I have always been a fan of Filles à Papa since i met this brand two years ago. For me it mostly about screaming words printed/sew or embroidered on garments, it’s about pop culture and freedom. During the Fashion week in Paris, F.A.P held a showroom for one night near of Republic district.

F.A.P garments have no boundaries, from oversize sweats to tight skirts, blowing winds of rebellion. Words like brand names in a vast supermarket. Words like provocative punk-rock slogans or graffitis yelled at our face but with a touch of glam’ and humour, a difficult balance beautifully maintained by Carol and Sarah Piron the two sisters founder of the belgian-based brand.

Nothing to do with those too-many-so-called-brands making buzz-tee-shirt with « the catchy word » on it. Carol and Sarah are respectively graphic designer and fashion designer, that why i suppose, typography, illustrations and shapes are easily joining. Mixing proportions, rawness and softness, their collections are dynamic and create a real attitude and coolness for girls.

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Below Carol Piron

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and Sarah Piron.

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Laure Capitani (WBDM) and designer Jean Paul Lespagnard

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Below Giles, washdown hoodie w/ « Retarded » sequin badge

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Kiser, velvet cap with « Loser » sequin badge, « Pop » tee-shirt and « Irvine », checked overskirt

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and « Lenny » oversize wool coat, « Jodie » oversize printed blouse and « Wall », velvet pant with grease marks at the bottom.

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Modoscopie | Olivia Hainaut rocks that!

Olivia Hainaut and I met during october at Showroom Belgium. We only spend a few minutes talking and exchanging business cards. I took a quick look at the jewels she creates and then go to see the others designers, my schedule was tight.

Two weeks ago i was in Brussels and we take time with Dominique Lefèbvre (WBI) to have a lunch with Olivia at Junkfood Deluxe by Quentin, speak freely and visit her atelier.

Olivia is from the french side of Belgium, studied at Les Beaux-Arts then at La Cambre. Her parents, a psychoanalyst mother who used to wear Sonia Rykiel, Paco Rabanne, smoke cigars and a father who used to grow sideburns and had a little monkey who play in his textile factory, were « eccentrics in love with fashion » she said, « they spend time organizing parties in their Vasarely-like apartment ».

From this era Olivia keeps the taste of beautiful things, fashion and luxury.

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Olivia Hainaut’s window shop

Inside the workshop and showroom

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Paco Rabanne’s « 1969 » iconic chainmail bag

Passionate about movies, she first want to work for the cinema and did photo styling. Romy Schneider, her favorite actress, was one of our first subject of discussion talking about her beauty and the movies La Piscine, Les Choses de la vie or L’Enfer.

Olivia is also a big fan of all the hottest actress of the seventies, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, Ursula Andress, Monica Vitti. During the dessert we talk about Madness on the roofs of Buckingham Palace for the diamond jubilee. We sung Lovecats, from The Cure(!), remember Blondie, Siouxsie and all that punk-rock music. We talked about the looks of these bands especially Olivia who we wore them all (from rockabilly to new-wave)!

After this experience she starts her own collection of jewelry and show it to Natan, the great belgian fashion house. Immediately they ask for her skills and she starts making beading, embroideries for cocktail and weddings dresses for more than ten years. At that time all that she learned and earned was invested in her personal collection. Things were going well, her creations were sold in Paris at Le Bon Marché until september 11th…

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A finely crafted leather scarf, each model is cut in a full animal skin and therefore is unique. I couldn’t resist to buy one in black,.

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From gold, metallic, fluo or mat, dozens of colors are available. Everything is carefully crafted in Italy

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Today she’s no longer collaborate with Natan, developing her brand is the main goal. But as she told me it’s difficult nowdays for independents designers and she need more collaborations or internship in a more established house (Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen will be a must).
Most of the time belgian people (french) prefer buy foreign brands than local ones, while the flemish support their Ann Demeulmesteer, Dries Van Noten or Bruno Pieters. In general belgian designers have better recognition outside the country.

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All these experiences and influences are the core of her work, her main creations mix something dark and shiny, sophisticated and raw, sharp and soft.

More at Olivia Hainaut’s website

LIVE IT UP: VIVE LA FÊTE

LAST NIGHT, VIVE LA FÊTE, BELGIAN ROCK BAND WAS PLAYING LOUD THEIR ELECTRO-ROCK MUSIC AT LA MACHINE DU MOULIN ROUGE IN PARIS. AT THE SAME TIME JAYZ-Z AND KANYE WEST WERE DOING THEIR GREAT « WATCH THE THRONE » SHOW AT PARIS BERCY.

ELS PYNOO, VOCALS, WEARING MARLIES DEKKER’S BRA, IS TERRIFIC. SHE IS SURE A MUSE AND IT IS NOT SURPRISING THAT KARL LAGERFELD ASK THE BAND TO PLAY FOR VARIOUS CHANEL SHOW IN 2002.
ROCK’N’ROLL POWER !
BELOW DANY MOMMENS (GUITAR)

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ELS PYNOO, DRESSED LIKE A SUPER HERO, WONDER WOMAN & TECHNO-BLONDIE

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THE USUAL SHITTY VIDEO OF THE EVENT.